Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
